The Faroe Islands - Part One

Situated in the Atlantic at 62 degrees north, the Faroe Islands lie approximately midway between the north of Scotland and Iceland. The archipelago comprises 18 islands and is around 70 miles long and 47 miles wide. The islands are fairly mountainous, with the highest almost 3000 feet above sea level. The population of the Faroes is almost 49,000, with a significant proportion living in the main town of Torshavn. The Faroes are a self-governing nation of the Kingdom of Denmark. The national language is Faroese, which is rooted in Old Norse, although English is widely spoken. The main industries in the Faroes are fishing, tourism and wool production.

Whilst there are 18 islands, the major ones are linked via tunnels and bridges, and nowhere on the main island network is much more than an hour's drive away. Photographically, the mountains of the Faroes are spectacular – jagged peaks rise straight from the sea, and the changeable weather can produce stunning light in which to photograph them. The islands are dotted by grass-roofed houses and churches that are particularly photogenic against dramatic light, and there are also a plethora of stunning waterfalls.

After arriving at Vagar airport, we will be based in the Hotel Foroyar, Torshavn, and it only takes a short drive to many locations. to visit places on the islands of Vagar, Streymoy and Esturoy.  

Gásadalur is a remote village on the western edge of Vágar, accessible only by a steep footpath over the surrounding mountains. From its clifftop perch overlooking Mykinesfjørður, the village opens onto sweeping views of the island of Mykines. Encircled by Vágar’s highest peaks, Gásadalur feels both sheltered and dramatically exposed—an isolated gem shaped by wind, sea, and silence.

We first visited the Múlafossur waterfall in deep snow, when the entire village lay under a white blanket. Later in the week, after the snow had melted, the landscape had taken on an autumnal character, glowing with warm orange hues. As it had just rained, we were delighted to see a rainbow arcing across the valley.

It was not all wonderful, however—one member of our group lost their tripod over the cliff! Such things happen all too easily on these exposed edges, where sudden gusts of wind can catch you off guard.

The view of the island of Koltur from the Norðradalur–Koltur road on Streymoy is one of the most striking vistas in the Faroe Islands. Near the Norðradalsskarð mountain pass (approx. 62.0548° N, –6.9187° W), the landscape opens dramatically, revealing Koltur rising alone from the sea like a sculpted monolith.

Koltur is one of the smallest and most solitary of the Faroe Islands.  Its name means “colt”, paired with its neighbouring island Hestur (“horse”).  The island has only one inhabited farm and, today, no permanent residents.

Its highest point, Kolturshorn, rises to 477 metres and forms the island’s distinctive, sweeping profile. This vantage point is known for its fast-moving clouds sweeping over the ridges, sudden breaks of light illuminating Koltur, strong winds funnelling through the pass, no wonder it was bitter cold.

Koltur, like the rest of the Faroe Islands, is the exposed remnant of a vast basaltic plateau formed during the Paleogene period around 55–60 million years ago. During this time, enormous volcanic eruptions created thick sequences of basalt lava flows, which cooled into layered formations that now define the islands’ dramatic cliffs and stepped mountainsides

Norðradalur — nestled in a secluded valley on the Faroe Islands — is a small farm settlement on the rugged western side of Streymoy.

Its name, Norðradalur, translates to Northern Valley, a fitting description for this dramatic landscape shaped by three surrounding mountains. Among them, Núgvan rises prominently at 667 m, while Stíggjafjall, 547 m and Tunguliofjall 535 m, form part of the valley’s natural enclosure. 

Rugged terrain, sheer cliffs, and sweeping views toward the North Atlantic give this valley a sense of isolation and raw beauty that defines the Faroese landscape

One can view the village of Funningsfjørður that is on the island Eysturoy, described as a village at the end of a fjord from  the Gonguturur viewpoint area: 62.2976, - 6.9330

Funningur is a quiet village on Eysturoy Island, set amid the dramatic landscapes of the Faroe Islands. Nestled at the foot of Slættaratindur—the highest mountain in the archipelago—the settlement rests in a deep valley that, according to legend, was the first place reached by the earliest settlers. With its rugged coastline and sweeping mountain backdrop, Funningur presents some of the most striking and serene scenery in the islands.

There are two scenic routes into the village: one tracing the dramatic shoreline of the Funningsfjørður fjord, and the other curling over a lush, winding road from the nearby village of Eiði. The iconic zigzagging descent into Funningur is especially memorable. A superb viewpoint lies along the road to Gjógv, where the landscape suddenly opens, revealing the road snaking down the mountainside from Slættaratindur—soaring 880 meters (2,887 feet) above sea level.

Within the village, a charming traditional wooden church topped with a turf roof adds to Funningur’s timeless character, while a gentle stream running through the settlement enhances its peaceful atmosphere. Look up from the valley floor, and the towering slopes of Slættaratindur dominate the view, rising majestically above the quiet coastal hamlet.

A Royal Visit

On 22 June 2005, Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary of Denmark visited Gjógv. Two local residents had arranged for the placement of a scenic bench overlooking the gorge; it was named Mary’s Bench, and the Crown Princess became the first to sit on it. During the visit, Faroese opera singer Rúni Brattaberg performed for the royal couple.  

The Gjógv incline railway is the only operating railway in the Faroe Islands. Due to the islands’ steep terrain and numerous fjords, traditional rail transport is difficult to implement, making this incline system particularly notable.

The narrow-gauge line runs from the harbour inside the gorge up a steep slope to the boathouses in the upper village, ending near the village coffee house, Gjáarkaffi. The railway operates without locomotives; instead, a winch pulls rope-attached wagons up and down the incline. Although, intended for freight, locals often ride the wagons along with the cargo.

The winch house stands at the top of the incline, and the rope route can be traced by metal plates set into the road surface. On the incline itself, the rope travels over rollers positioned between the rails.

The railway was originally installed to move goods brought by sea at a time when road transport was limited. While modern delivery trucks now supply most businesses in the village, the incline railway remains operational and is still occasionally used for transporting goods and small boats.